The Rolex Submariner reference 16808, a coveted piece of horological history, holds a special place in the hearts of collectors. This article delves deep into a review of this iconic timepiece, exploring its design, history, and the factors that contribute to its enduring appeal, alongside a look at the current market for these sought-after watches. While the reference number often cited is 1680/8, it's important to understand that this is a shorthand notation often used, encompassing watches produced within a specific timeframe and featuring certain characteristics. The actual reference number stamped on the case will always be 16808.
A Glimpse into History: The 18k Gold Submariner
The Rolex Submariner 16808 represents a fascinating chapter in the Submariner's evolution. Produced in 18k yellow gold, it stands apart from its stainless steel counterparts, offering a luxurious and opulent alternative. This particular reference, often associated with the years 1983-1988 (though production dates can vary slightly), showcases Rolex's mastery of both diving functionality and high-end craftsmanship. The transition from the earlier 1680 to the 16808 marked subtle but significant changes, reflecting Rolex's ongoing commitment to improvement and refinement.
The "1680/8" designation often seen in online marketplaces and collector circles, while not an official Rolex designation, refers to this specific transitional period and variation within the 16808 series. These variations might include subtle differences in dial markings, hand styles, or even the type of crystal used. Understanding this nuanced terminology is crucial for discerning collectors navigating the market for used Rolex 16808 for sale.
Design and Features: A Classic Reimagined
The 16808 retains the core design elements that define the Submariner: a robust 40mm case, a unidirectional rotating bezel (with a potential "ghost bezel" variation, discussed below), luminous markers, and a highly legible dial. However, the 18k yellow gold case elevates the watch to a new level of sophistication. The warmth and richness of the gold complement the classic Submariner silhouette beautifully.
The dial itself is a source of much discussion among collectors. Variations exist, with differences in the font style of the text, the placement of the markers, and the overall color and patina of the dial over time. These variations contribute to the individuality of each watch and are often a key factor in determining value. Finding a pristine, original dial on a used Rolex 16808 for sale is a significant aspect of its desirability.
The bezel, a crucial element for divers, is unidirectional, preventing accidental adjustments that could compromise dive time calculations. The "ghost bezel" variation, often seen on examples from this era, refers to a bezel insert that has faded or worn over time, resulting in a muted or less distinct appearance. While some consider this a negative, many collectors find the "ghost bezel" aesthetically appealing, adding character and a sense of history to the watch.
The movement powering the 16808 is typically the caliber 3035, a reliable and robust automatic movement known for its accuracy and longevity. This movement embodies Rolex's commitment to precision and reliability, traits that have become synonymous with the brand.
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